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    Over the past few years, the digital camera market has been transformed by the arrival of mirrorless compact system cameras. Freed from film-era design constraints, these can provide image quality to match SLRs in a much more portable form factor.

    Entry-level models provide compact-camera like handling and simplicity, while high-end cameras such as the Sony NEX-7 , Olympus OM-D E-M5 and Fujifilm X-E1 are able to offer a full set of enthusiast-friendly manual controls in smaller, more discreet systems, and with relatively few compromises.

    However to persuade buyers to forsake their SLRs, the camera companies also need to offer lens lines that will cover their needs.

    While most manufacturers have attacked the mirrorless market from the bottom up, Fujifilm's approach has been the opposite, starting with the unashamedly top-end X-Pro1 followed up by the more enthusiast-oriented X-E1.

    The company's lens line reflects this - instead of starting out with entry-level kit zooms, it took the decidedly unusual step of launching with three fixed-focal length primes. The XF mm F3. Like the mm it features a relatively fast maximum aperture, gathering half a stop more light than most similar zooms for SLRs, and it uses a pair of linear stepper motors for near-silent autofocus. As with the other XF lenses, it offers all-metal barrel construction and an on-lens aperture control ring.

    The overall picture is of a decidedly premium lens, that's quite unlike the inexpensive mm F The pictures below illustrate the focal length range, taken from our standard position. The mm offers a similar angle of view to a mm lens on full frame. The test site Optical Limits gives the mm a better rating and a Highly Recommended badge which it doesn't give to the mm. Just bought it. I too have been changing from a bulky slr type camera to fuji as the lens quality is first class along with there size, aperture, and weight of their cameras and lenses.

    Who said that larger format is better than apsc they didn't recon on the fuji x range. If anyone is looking for a small flash but with pro handling the should look at the new Nissin i I think its perfect for the fuji x system cameras check it out. I do not like rubber on the lens. WOuld rather have it all metal. Many of Ken Rockwell lenses the rubber got sticky in time. Nikon and Canon. Any ideas, comments, or To make this experience better.

    The lens on the X Pro 1 is workable but not seeing the whole zoom in the view finder making it a challenge to use zoomed out past Love to hear some feedback.

    Thanks in advance. Hi, Prior to get this lens, I am worrying about the photo 3 95mm F4 ,that shows the London parliament.

    To me , it's not soft, it's blurred. Am I going to obtain that kind of picture if the camera automatically applies some correction for pincushion distortion?? Even the flowers and leaves 4, are under a normal sharpness level.

    Anyone 's got more clues or samples? Photos are very sharp and it does not hunt as much in low light like my Canon or Nikon long range zooms did. How fast is fast and how slow is slow? To me, the important thing is whether it is fast enough for your needs. I am a careful and deliberate shooter. I remember when AF was a thing of the future and everyone had to manually focus.

    The first auto focus cameras did a lot of hunting before settling down and we all thought it was wonderful. My internet provider is lightening fast and it's major competitor promises even faster operation.

    But do I need it? I am only so fast and the older I get, the less fast I am. I guess this is a long winded way of saying that as a Fuji-XPro-1 user with all the latest firmware downloads AF is lightening fast for me, although my OM-D is somewhat faster. So, how fast do you really need aside from enhancing your bragging rights when comparing cameras?

    Well put. I am waiting for the X-E2 to have a smaller system in my kit as I too am getting older and my 1d MKII is killing my wrist after hours of photographing weddings. I think the Fuji will be a great relief pitcher so-to-speak come the reception and I suspect I'll use it too with portraits.

    I hope they get their game on for a small flash capable of high speed sync. If you still have a problem, perhaps you're just not the sort that's prepared to learn how to use a camera. It's pretty solid for the most part, but it is still CDAF, and it is still a bit slower than the fastest Olympus cameras.

    Well the opinion of the internet is the opinion of those that have no other opinion, so perhaps you have a point. Maybe the number of featureless white wall photographer enthusiasts is greater than we predicted. Was super fast AF really that important? Was it because, 1.

    Most photographers is still an Amateur after many years of pictures taking, so need newer blazing AF tech to help them to get the job done? Most photographers was simply too lazy? If the 2nd remark was true, get yourself a Smarter Smartphone then. Whether you consider the AF to be slow or fast depends on what you are shooting.

    If one is shooting landscape or stationary subjects, it is fast enough but if you are shooting catwalk models or football it is not fast enough. I use manual focus for a lot of my landscape, low light, macro photography and stationary portraits and it is still fast enough. What does this even mean? Or the reverse? Either way Why make up stupid stats.

    AF is a good thing. I am a 27 year pro photographer that started with film and MF. Would I be ok if AF went away They are different cameras. Does that make the Fujis useless The samples pages really just prove that good light and decent composition are always more important than the gear.

    That said - Fuji does manage to achieve a distinct and great look to images that suit it's strengths. Bravo Fuji.

    The Pros in the Conclusion of this lens' test seem to indicate it's something more than 'consumer' - as is commonly understood by the term. Two old saws come to mind: 'You get what you pay for' and, 'The quality will remain when the price is long forgotten'.

    They offered me to have to wait and pay a lot to get an F replacement from Japan or give me an F model for free. They were simply great. Now, this was a long time ago so don't know how they are now, but if that's any indication, they are really good.

    Quite likely it depends on the country. In the Uk I've had two issues for which the service wasn't great. A fuji F30 that had a severe soft-on-the-left problem.

    Unfixed the first time around, kludge fix the second time around that left the whole image slightly soft instead of just the left side. But I have also heard that they have excellent support, so I suspect it's geographic. Yes, they were excellent. Fixed one of my cameras out of warranty because they agreed a card interface error should not have happened at all.

    But I buy my cameras from a reputable dealer and generally let him handle warranty issues. His opinion is that he prefers dealing with Fuji to all the rest. Late to the party but still relevant, a couple of years back sent my grey market X-T1 to Fuji Australia for that infamous rubber door buckle issue and they fixed it no questions asked even though they knew it wasn't Australian stock, they even listed a complimentary sensor clean on the repair docket.

    Not sure about this statement by the author. I have an X-E1 and I don't think setting the focus point is that fast.

    I still have to push the left button, then the right cursor wheel. The Canon 7D is much faster with the joystick. If you have not seen that, upgrade to the latest firmware then press the down button arrow on the right side. There is nothing quick about setting the AF point on the Fujis. Even with the update it's still clunky at best. It changes the viewfinder, which eats up some time. Then you move the point and half-press and hope it focuses right.

    If the subject moves you go through the whole process again. One of the main reasons I ditched my XPro-1 was because even with the fix it's still pretty slow. Even if it required using the EVF only it would be a good feature to have to speed up AF with moving subjects.

    Well I am talking specifically about what DVT said, not about your needs.



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    If you demand something like that, it says more about you than about anything else. Also, most of what I discussed here wasn't even about equivalence. It was about the new OM System and what the new company might or might not want to do in the future. If you find that boring, don't read. It's that simple. It's just you who makes a yawning fool of himself here. I use my real name, real location, real link to my photography.

    Everything about you is fake, and your comments will be treat with the derision they deserve. So what?

    If you can't see there are good reasons why people use pseudonyms that's on you, and I don't publicly display my photography because I don't need to. By the way, the person behind Hubertus Bigend actually has shown some of images under his real name in a few other public places, as he never found dpreview a good image sharing platform, which is even more true in with their ancient platform, but no, Hubertus Bigend won't, ever, it's the real person's privilege.

    Still, what Hubertus Bigend thinks and writes is the same as for the real person. And that's enough for me and for most of the people I've had good discussions with over all those years. Why should anyone care what a yawn thinks of them? Actually, my person isn't even on topic here and I've already written more about me than you deserve. So: you're free to discuss what I write, which stands for itself, and if you don't want to, fine, that's less work for me.

    Cheers and EOD. I am not a m43 user but the samples look fine, probably well worth it if you are invested in the system. I would agree. I have the mark 1 so for me there is no added value in upgrading. The weather sealing improvement is welcome but I do not use my system in extreme weather. If I was starting out I would opt for this latest model. Gourownway I feel the same but have no hesitation using the Mk1 in the rain.

    I'm more concerned with getting myself wet rather than the lens and camera. I had the original version and it has a very strong side - video.

    I actually preferred it over the native Pany Guess people who upgraded to GH6 will use this thing extensively. It was a little bit better in every aspect - a little bit longer at the long end, a little bit more precise MF ring, a little bit closer to focus that was a thing I really liked about it.

    And it's all-metal very solid build. I had the feeling I an crack nuts with it. Looks good. I'm guessing any difference between this and the mk I version would be very subtle. It's hard to tell, but it seems slightly soft at 2. I find it very difficult to make judgments on sample galleries. My eyes and monitors are just not good enough. I rely to you guys to make the judgments for me. However, I suspect the differences between the Mk1 and Mk2 may be over shadowed by sample variation.

    The colour in these photos look really natural and pleasing to me. If I didn't go Fuji Olympus was my next choice. Looks really good for a 2. I also find the grain very natural and pleasing to my eye.

    If you took the same shots on the same bodies with the earlier version of this lens, would people who had no idea which lens was used be able to tell a meaningful differrence?

    The lens is the same except for the improved weather-sealing, some token new coating and the OM System logo.

    Even got a quality UV filter and all original packaging with my purchase! Works great with my first gen E-M5 body. I own the "older" version of this lens. My only real complaint is the lens hood is a bit fragile. Otherwise, the lens is sharp and colorful, basically a super clear window into whatever current m43 sensor technology can capture. I judge all other zooms I own based on this lens.

    I think they reworked the lens hood for the Mk II version, but I am not too sure about that. Personally I never had an issue with the hood, but read quite a few complains about it falling apart. A while ago I switched from the 2. It also uses a much simpler design for the lens hood. I agree about the lens hood. My hood fell apart on me after I dropped it the hood, not the lens but my local camera shop secured it with a few tiny, strategically place, drops of super glue.

    No problems after that 4 yrs. Many of these pictures seem to have some focus or movement problem, they seem to be trepidated although there is no mirror. Actually it is not. This product is made by OM Systems.

    Olympus decided to sell of their camera devision to JIP a while ago. They make outstanding colonoscopes now. Did the Olympus lens designers move to OM Systems? If this is the case, I can care less about the brand name change. I care more about the skill and experience of these designers and I would say "another outstanding product from them" Karroly - That is a good question, and one to which I don't know the answer.

    I'm fairly certain OMDS got to keep the Zuiko brand name, but I don't recall ever hearing who got the optical design team. Is there more than one? Lens is quality, weather sealed small and light perfect for an OM camera. As a long-time Four Thirds and Micro Four Thirds user, I consistently find the MFT advocats' anticipatory aggression against real or imagined 'haters' a bigger problem for the system and its reputation than any 'haters' themselves ever posed.

    I agree - MFT enthusiasts are so defensive that they troll themselves. Often it is they who first mention equivalence, not the nasty full-frame bullies they imagine persecute them. If I were to pass judgement on this lens from those photos I would say they look very uninspiring for a fast pro lens. The lens doesn't have a good weather option?

    I thought that was what the fn-button was for. I've been pushing that button for years hoping that the sun would come out Sigma's been on a roll with their mirrorless Art series lenses. Does the new 24mm F1. It brings a new, 25MP sensor and bit 4K capture at up to p. We've put it to the test, both in the studio and out in the field. In our tests it delivers big performance and offers a few good reasons why you might choose a 12th-Gen Intel laptop over a Mac. Canon's high end APS-C mirrorless camera has plenty of compelling features, but is it worth the price?

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    Reading mode: Light Dark. Login Register. Best cameras and lenses. Now reading: OM System mm F2. Tags: sample-gallery , om-digital-solutions.

    OM System mm F2. Discuss in the forums See full product details View sample images. We are retrieving offers for your location, please refresh the page to see the prices. View Comments AF also improved with newer Firmware, but it isn't a sports camera.

    Horses for courses. I think that comment from mlupi must relate to the A7R, not the A7. Having had both, the A7R is extremely slow on focusing and yes, I missed a load of shots or got them out of focus.

    The A7R is aimed at landscape photographers, so yes, it is aimed at static subjects! As for the A7, the focus is very fast, precise and reliable.

    Colours are accurate. They may have the same body, but they are two very different cameras when it comes to performance. There is a setting that can either reflect the exposure setting or this can be turned off to maintain constant brightness.

    In other words, if you shoot in Manual mode with fixed iso and settings effect ON, your brightness will reflect the settings i. EVF will get darker as you close down aperture. With settings effect OFF the EVF will maintain constant brightness but framerate may get lower as you let less light in.

    Settings effect OFF is especially useful when flash is used in manual mode or when you want to maintain constant brightness to aid the visibility, especially when focusing manually. Hi Vit, thanks for the help. I would be most interested in depth of field effects when stopping down. Clearly this would show no mater what, but I thought the digital display ought to show a bright screen so long as there was enough ambient light, and so it apparently does I also don't understand why manual focus should be difficult although I suppose without the split image finders it might not be as obvious.

    Manual focus can be difficult in low light conditions only when the display can get grainy. Otherwise it is quite easy aided by magnification and focus peaking. No camera is perfect The High ISO or higher Image Quality is really helping me out in many different situations: -Bouncing flash into umbrella instead of my huge portable flashes -Low light when I cannot use flash -Flash indoors party and picking up background light.

    How to get rid of the level in the EVF? And what is the Zebra markings do? What does it have to do with brightness?

    There has been a firmware update 1. It made changes to the high ISO suppression. Overall I have found the camera on V2. Switching off Auto Dynamic Range helped with reducing shadow noise. Thank you Glen I've recently bought an A7 with the original firmware. I didn't fully test it before updating to the v2. I noticed a quite improvement in the start up time and responsiveness but couldn't compare the IQ before and after.

    All in all , I'm happy with it. How well does this camera support manual focussing and are there any issues working with manual lenses or even adapting vintage manual lenses? And is it possible to remove the AF Start from the shutter half-press, assigning it to a separate designated button instead?

    I'm using the A7 with old Minolta, Canon and Vivitar lenses and it works perfectly. And yes you can move AF to another button. This is a very old question, but in case you haven't got the answer it is quite simple: The mm is a lens designed for a smaller sensor APS-C and it's image circle does not cover the full frame sensor.

    What you are seeing is a lack of coverage, this can be avoided by either using it in crop mode the lenses intended format or using a FF lens instead. You guys are kidding right? I don't like Sony but I'm not so blind to say they are a weak company.

    They produce pretty much every piece of electronics you can think of. Wake up people, Sony is here to stay. After a decade of losing money on TVs, and four consecutive net loss-making years, Sony is running out of time and money. I won't buy camera from a company that might not exist anymore soon in the near future. Look at Apple, they had been suffering for so many years before becoming one of the biggest company in the world.

    With articulating at horizontal is mechanizm strong enough to hold up Hoodman 3X loupe without supporting with finger? Especially in darker environments. It's not as bad in bright light conditions. The pictures themselves are perfect and exactly what you'd expect even when viewed on the lcd screen of the camera. I have a NEX-7 and was considering upgrading to the A7. After reading this review I have second thoughts. It's definitely a step up but the improvement in IQ is not as much as I expected, given the significantly larger sensor size.

    If something built in metal, it's built is great, if plastic then so so From my own lessons learnt, do not take all these comments in the net so serious. I've been shooting with nex for two years and started wonder how fuji x systhem is, due to a lot of reviews with huge praises Let me tell you, two years of sel35 usage, 0 dust spec in the lens, but after two weeks of very careful usage with xf35, there are a lot of dust specks in the lens, on the rear element that can not be cleaned without disassembling the lens.

    So, very slow and noisy focus system of Xf35 whereas sel35 is light years faster and almost zero noise Also, xf35 has non internal focusing system, all the fron element moves front and back, moving parts that can be easily damaged if you drop it.. So where's the praised built quality? So another very praised lens, XF, reviews says awesome, terrific, outstanding sharpness, built quality bla bla bla Bought it, used it two weeks and shocked to see how cheaper, twice lighter SEL produces sharper, greater photos That's another BS SEL is definitely producing sharper images across the frame, in the center, a lot better Totally amazing camera.

    I just says "preparing for tranfer for minutes bofre transfer starts. I think this is more play memories issue than sony a7 issue. So I put airplane mode on, batteries will last longer too.

    Because there are better built cameras out there and the A7 pales in comparison therefore it can not be excellent. Build quality today need be just good enough to enable the camera to last its likely useful life - which is at best years. Could the A7 be more robust? We see no complaints that it is falling apart under even tough use. No D type recalls. I recall when the Canon T90 was introduced in plastic - horror! They're still in use today. For a camera likely to be obsolescent within a decade, it's built very well.

    It will last far longer than most complainers will care to own it. You comment that the distortions can't be turned off in jpeg. But according to my menu structure they can, individually, or completely. Whether you can turn off the correction depends on which lens you mount - some of the lenses are designed with the correction as part of their design, so you can't turn off the corrections for those the menu option is ghosted-out when they're mounted.

    Since eyesight progressily failing, and ears incresing in acuteness, if i record at 60p, is audio of higher quality tan recording 30p? Often times the sound is more powerful of ear than eye.

    No reson to use up card space if mainly for audio. No, the audio and video are not tied like that. You change the settings for each separately, I haven't read the full specs on the A7 but I don't think it allows you to change much about how it records audio.

    If you switch to 60FPS the audio stays the same only the video is encoded differently at the end. Anybody know of anything in the works? East west, Any lens that requires use of polarizer to optimize, otherthan specific intended use of polarizer, is certainly a lens i would never purchase.

    Put a 55mm Polarizer filter on, any will do. Screw the sunshade into it , so you can rotate for polarization max effect 5. Use DMF 7x fine focus, in auto or P modes 6. Results will astound you at 24x playback magnify! Contrast increases through a polarizer, so the AF system is faster and sharper.

    Will DMF mode fine tuning focus, the results are amazing. Its not the lens folks, its the poor skills of the photographer. Regards, Don Eastwestphoto. I'm sorry but I strongly disagree, I know the AF is to blame sometimes for a lens's lack of sharpness. So I tried it manually focused which is a breeze on the A7 thanks to the peaking. This lens is cruddy and soft, end of story. Plus I don't want to bloody DIY a focus filter in order for a lens to perform properly, that's just plain shoddy.

    I want to spend more time taking pictures and less time twiddling a polarizer. I'm Sorry, but I strongly disagree to you Carl. My sony is pretty awesome for sharpness, its just that, it requires right light to be sharp enough.

    I have done some outdoor shooting with this lens, and have received some real sharp images and pretty ok sort of bokeh, well I never expected to have any bokeh from this lens in the first place. You must learn, how to use your camera and lenses first, before speaking about it. Aridom, I agree. I found myself shooting with my kit lens a lot last week when I was walking around with my daughter and month-old grandson.

    I was shooting in restaurants and stores as well as backyards in shade, on playgrounds etc. It is not quite as sharp as my great legacy primes - but shockingly close, given its price. DxO doesn't get it always right, but they did on the , even though they mounted it on the not-recommended-by-Sony A7r. It's a vastly better lens than its critics claim, and as DxO noted, arguably a vastly better buy than the pseudo-Zeiss.

    I am alternating between my old Hexanon AR 50mm legacy prime lens and the Sony kit lens. Love the perfect IQ delivered by the Hexanon takes me back 38 years! I have been looking for a full format camera with a tiltable screen that's in my budget for a long time as tripods don't come up to my eye line. I was hoping this to be it but although the spec sheet says RAW is uncompressed format the conclusion says RAW is compressed and lossy.

    I'm not sure I like lossy RAW files in case one needs or wants to re edit them etc. Could this be Sony's way of helping to differentiate between this and their other more expensive cameras. I wonder if the A7R does the same. Need some serious advice Since the kit relatively small in relation to other FF zooms, how poor or good is its IQ? Would a better aps-c zoom on a have just as good print quality as on a7?

    I agree, Marc. People have gushed all over the because it costs x the kit lens, but still needs to be stopped down and limited to a mm range to perceptibly demonstrate superiority to the kit lens. The kit has a plastic mount, which makes it lighter and probably more rugged than the metal , too.

    I have a 24mm Canon FDn f2 that - wide open - blows the doors off any at 24mm at any aperture. Marc and mel, thanks. An additional question Exposures made only on sturdy tripod, approx. No, the difference is not likely to be visible without serious cropping.

    One of great "chicken little" issues in the history of optics. There is no "proofing" against stupid camera handling. Ok, regarding the posterization I've downloaded the arw and the uncompressed nef page 13 of the review, bottom and put them in lr 5. At each file there is a loading time where you can see the posterization effect in both. After loading there is no posterization.

    So, my opinion is that dpreview was using an older lr. I use a calibrated Dell Ultrasharp U P. Because the issue your link is talking about is completely pointless. Absolutely doesn't effect the usage of the camera. Here how you can meter the exposure yourself, if the screen is pitch black you are way under exposed. Of it is completely white, you are way over exposed. Not for street shooting or any fast moving situation. Focusing is horrid to non-existent if you want to capture the moment.

    After spending two weeks street shooting for the most part - all things considered you need to be on a tripod or to have lots of time to focus first.

    So forget capturing a "moment" that is fleeting. There are still many features that are just plain wrongly done or not thought thru from the standpoint of real world usage. The a7 is better from many standpoints but still lacks the focusing capability of even a low end DSLR. Very disappointed. Sony just can't get this line of cameras up to professional standards yet. Too bad. Would love to see them really make a full-frame mirrorless light weight camera be worth the money.

    But then their lens choices are just weird. What is the world are they thinking. I don't want to put a 2 pound lens on this camera. That totally defeats the go lighter mantra. Went street shooting with a group last night with the kit lens. It was fantastic. Yep, with the kit lens! I did not use a tripod. Focusing was dead easy if you know what you're doing. If the kit lens can perform as well it did at night, then I have no worries at all about what the FE 35mm can do.

    I always wonder what kind of seriously weird lighting people must be shooting under when they complain the A7 is slow to focus. Sure, it's not D4 fast but it is not miss-your-shot slow either. It's far better than any of the previous NEXes, and practically instant in daylight. I didn't know my zeiss 35mm was 2 pounds. Certainly doesn't feel like it. I think Charles comments are just wildly exaggerated. I was taking pics of my daughters on swings yesterday and it tracked them fine.

    I don't see any difference from my nex6 and my a7 when it comes to focusing. Guadeloupe Scribe Business Administration is a leading young business in marketing, communication and press relation at your services.

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